The toucan has long been Dublin brewer Guinnesss advertising emblem. Here, the walls are covered with the critters in their various retro advertising permutations. Check out the basement, whose bar is a kitsch, atmospheric squeeze that looks a great deal older than it is. Expect well-kept pints of the black stuff: take it unadulterated, or in black Maria and black velvet, but be prepared to sup out on the street when the cellar and less interesting ground-floor bar get packed with office evacuees. Theres also a fair range of Irish whiskey, plus tear-jerking tunes, and the sort of food Father Teds Mrs Doyle might rustle up.