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The fabulously handsome Grade II-listed Prince Alfred is like a 160-year-old working museum, and has recently received a major refurbishment from owners Young’s. Its former Formosa Dining Room is now a convivial English brasserie, and the coal cellars have been imaginatively transformed into private-dining vaults. There’s so much to admire at this bobby-dazzler boozer – from fluted iron columns to stunning ornate tiles and a dramatic mahogany horseshoe bar – the food and drink almost play second fiddle. Order Young’s and Camden ales on draught; Beavertown and Hammerton among the craft bottled beers; cocktails such as sloe gin Negroni; or familiar wine appellations from £20 a bottle. Bar snacks and sharing boards are available during the day, along with a classic British menu that’s served until late evening: perhaps hearty winter soup followed by beef and bone-marrow pie, with sticky toffee pudding to finish. Be sure to book ahead for Sunday roast.

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