The Brown Cow

Set up by the guys from the excellent Sands End nearby, this venue has taken on its sibling’s distinctive ‘country pub in the city’ vibe – and is certainly wowing the crowds. Hover by the bar and sup a pint or two of real ale or join the buzzy throng seated at bare refectory tables. Either way, the cooking takes its cue from its neighbour, with a tempting roll call of “consistently good food” running from charred mackerel with beetroot, coleslaw and vodka crème fraîche to Barbary duck breast with caramelised figs and blackberry jus, braised lamb shank with cavolo nero, and even Cumberland sausages with creamed potato. Desserts might feature warm banana and hazelnut cake, while the carefully managed wine list offers plenty in the £20-30 bracket. Nibbles such as mac ‘n’ cheese balls are available all day, and we’ve heard that Sunday roasts are a good call.