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Ronnie Scott’s clientele are, first and foremost, devoted music fans, although everyone who books a spot for noshing gets a table among the tiers. Mind you, it all gets rather glitzy when big names are performing, the Champagne is flowing and the caviar section of the menu has its moment. Thankfully, staff get service out of the way before the band comes on. The kitchen is now cooking up more patriotic dishes (think ham-hock terrine and fish pie) alongside the burgers and other international favourites – artichoke and ricotta tortellini or calf’s liver with confit potato and salsify, for example. Cocktails are also served in the upstairs bar, where a younger crowd gather for funky club nights; Pete King’s ‘nohito’ is a liquid tribute to the club’s late (and teetotal) co-founder.

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