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It would have made a great location for The Sopranos, but the top notes at this offbeat art gallery-cum-cocktail lounge/diner aren’t operatic: the clue is in the name. Sip champagne from £40 & wines by the carafe (£13); double that for a bottle of acceptable Aussie Chardonnay. A small cover charge applies for live jazz, blues & soul with roots in Memphis & New Orleans – think Harry, Elmore & Etta James respectively. It’s been many decades since Tequila sunrise (£17.95 by the jug) was last described as ‘exotic’, & there’s also piña colada from a ‘frantic & creamy’ selection of nostalgic cocktails. To eat, meatballs join crumbed garlic mushrooms, steak-frites & southern-fried chicken on the quaint menu at this curiously engaging rough diamond with its heart in the 50s.

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