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Cosy, rickety, narrow taverns are becoming an endangered species in this part of town, where the side streets are being stripped of all discernible London character. Dating back to 1732, The Chequers is a survivor and it looks the part with its blood-red plastered low ceilings, stained glass windows, original gas lamps, well-weathered swirl-patterned carpets and dimpled pint pots dangling from the bar canopy. Prices for food and drink are cheap by St James’s standards, so enjoy a pint of well-kept Caledonian Port of Leith or a glass of serviceable wine with your chosen nosh – perhaps a Scotch egg, a toastie, fish and chips, a pie or a curry. The name of this time-warp boozer refers to the Georgian coachmen who whiled away the time in Mason’s Yard behind the pub, playing chequers at the beck and call of their superiors.

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